Umm Ahmed Al-Hakamani: The Guardian of Kohl and the Spirit of the Sea

Introduction

In the heart of Masirah Island, where the sea embraces heritage and salt carries the scent of history, stands Umm Ahmed Al-Hakamani — a living symbol of Omani authenticity. With hands steeped in the fragrance of the ocean and the wisdom of generations, she crafts kohl in the traditional way she inherited from mothers and grandmothers before her. More than an artisan, she is a guardian of a vanishing art — a timeless treasure that binds beauty, nature, and heritage.

Who is Umm Ahmed?

Her real name is Khusayfa bint Ta’eeb bin Hamad Al-Hakamani, a woman from Masirah with an early passion for traditional crafts and cultural heritage. From a young age, she found joy in creating with her hands, and among all crafts, she fell in love with making traditional Omani kohl. She learned the craft from her family but later refined it — modernizing some methods while preserving its soul and authenticity.

The Beginning: When Passion Became a Purpose

Umm Ahmed recalls her beginnings in the early 1990s.

“It was a simple start, but it was successful and full of meaning.”

Since then, she has viewed this work not as a hobby, but as a mission to keep Omani traditions alive in an era of modern cosmetics and industrial products.

The Journey of Making Traditional Kohl

Crafting kohl the traditional way is a delicate ritual that requires patience, precision, and respect for nature. Umm Ahmed describes five essential steps:

1. Collecting shark liver and extracting its oil.
2. Pouring the oil into a clean clay pot or seashell, inserting a cotton wick, and lighting it. The oil burns slowly, producing thick black smoke.
3. Collecting the soot (known locally as duurat al-kohl) that forms on the ceiling of the container — this is the pure black pigment.
4. Melting cow butter and mixing it carefully with clean water and the soot to create a balanced, smooth paste.
5. Shaping the mixture into small rounded pieces and storing them in decorative kohl containers (makaheel).

The Secret of Shark Liver

Why shark liver? Umm Ahmed explains that it’s rich in natural nutrients beneficial for eye health — it strengthens vision, prevents dryness, and protects the retina from damage with age. Unlike many commercial products, her kohl is described as 100% natural and therapeutic, crafted with attention to purity and tradition.

Crafting with Family and Care

While Umm Ahmed personally handles every stage of production, her family assists in the final packaging and presentation. She works in a cool, clean, closed space to preserve the purity and quality of each batch. For her, every grain of soot and every drop of oil carries the spirit of the sea and the patience of the artisan.

Beyond Kohl: A Sea of Creativity

Her artistry goes beyond kohl. Umm Ahmed also hand-makes:

• Makaheel — kohl containers crafted from seashells, silk threads (barisam), and metallic embroidery (zari).
• Traditional Omani dresses, sewn by hand with delicate details.
• Miniature models and marine-inspired accessories, decorated and painted with care.

Each piece reflects the harmony between Oman’s maritime identity and its deep cultural heritage.

Heritage as a Living Identity

For Umm Ahmed, heritage is not just something to be remembered — it’s something to be lived and passed on. She actively participates in local and national exhibitions, proudly showcasing her products and educating visitors about their cultural significance. Her next dream: to represent Oman internationally and introduce the world to the island’s traditional crafts.

A Message to the Youth and Women of Oman

Her message to young Omanis is clear:

“Preserve your heritage. Develop it, modernize it, but never lose its essence. Our traditions are our identity — once lost, we lose a part of ourselves.”

To Omani women, she adds:

“Take pride in your crafts and cultural roots. You carry the legacy of generations — keep it alive and shining.”

A Dream that Never Fades

Umm Ahmed dreams that her traditional kohl will one day be known across the world — as a symbol of natural beauty and cultural pride. She hopes for greater support from institutions to organize training workshops that teach the younger generation how to carry on this art before it fades into memory.

Closing

✨ From shark liver to traditional kohl, Umm Ahmed tells the story of a homeland where the sea meets heritage, and where a woman’s hands turn tradition into art. Through her craft, she reminds the world that authentic beauty is timeless — just like Oman itself. 🌊🖤